Post by kathleenl on Jan 6, 2019 23:30:41 GMT
12/28/2018 - 1/5/2019
Thanks to all of you who provided advice and perspectives here and on TA. This trip would not have been nearly as wonderful without your guidance.
May you all have good health and happiness in 2019.
Our rental was a one bedroom house on the south end of Double Bay. It was just the husband (DH Darling Husband) and me. Far enough away from GH to be quiet, but a good central location to see as much as possible. Beautiful weather, friendly people, amazing scenery, quietude, and starry nights sums it up but the detailed memories are tumbling through my mind in an incredible kaleidoscope
Fun stuff first, practical stuff to follow, if I get around to it. Except for this - if you’re reading this for first time visitor info, get the Beach Book.
It costs less than swimwear and snorkel gear - just buy it, trust me. It will save you frustrating false starts and give you accurate 411 to make the most of your beach time.
Central Beaches
We knew that this time of year the air and water temps might not be good for extended bobbing and snorkeling. The week was windy but beautiful! On the upside, we weren’t fatigued by extreme heat and humidity nor besieged by bitey bugs. Most beautiful water views ever - we don’t have to get in it to enjoy it.
Double Bay (south end): most people seen at one time 8. A wide, clean beach, most of the homes were shuttered. The reef seemed too far for us especially given conditions. We can swim but it’s not our strength. We had a first time (for us) critter sighting at the very southern end, see Critters section below.
Ten Bay: most people seen at one time (first visit) 10 including those on a cottage porch. Another clean beach with a long (50 yards at least) sandy shallow entry. There was abundant shade under the casuarina trees. Saw a small ray and small fish. Enjoyable wading. We went back on New Years Day but there was a two car traffic jam at the parking area so we turned around and headed to...
Savannah Sound: most people seen at one time 1 - someone bonefishing during our first visit. On New Year’s Day there was no one but us. We pulled into the first parking area to check things out and there was no reason to drive further for privacy. It was low tide. The expanse of beach and crystalline water was divine. As an added bonus it was just after noon and the casuarina trees were casting a little shade. Delightful critter encounters here too. Might the rest of 2019 be this peaceful? Hope springs eternal.
Another ting Central
Leon Levy Plant Preserve was interesting and we saw only two other people on the trails. The view and breeze atop the tower was worth it. They are not just growing plants, but monitoring and studying conditions with scientific methods and equipment. One thing we learned is that casuarina trees are considered invasive. I forgot to ask if they were native or non-native.
Further Afield Up South and Down North
Lighthouse Point: My DH’s must see was Glass Window Bridge. LHP was mine. We left Double Bay at 7:30, about an hour later than planned, but it worked out ok. When the pavement ended and the beach road began we continued about a mile in the rental, a Honda CRV. At first the unpaved road was no worse that the road to the rental on Double Bay. Then it got much worse.
From behind the wheel DH was enjoying the challenge even as I winced at the fingernails on chalkboard sound of branches brushing against the vehicle. Then, on a small sandy rise, we brushed the bottom which was a bit unnerving. Just after that we came to a spot that was at least three vehicles wide and about four car lengths. We pulled over and surveyed the road ahead.
We could see Red Pond in the distance but we were fairly certain we were seeing the middle or end of it. As far as we could see the road would be more of the same - rocky and deeply rutted. A walk would be faster and more pleasant. We left the windows down, grabbed our lightweight daypacks and proceeded on foot.
After awhile (I think at the top of Red Pond) the road became flat packed sand and would have been an easy drive from that point,, but we enjoyed the walk. There were interesting tracks in the sand that were explained by a few small critter sightings.
We got to the Caribbean beach at about 9:20 and had it to ourselves. We followed the very soft sand “road” over to the Atlantic side and made our way out to the Point. It was windy, but not so much that it was too worrisome. It was totally worth the effort. After taking it all in and finding the surveyors marker dated 1959, we nosed around the lighthouse then ate snacks on the Caribbean beach. It was now around 11:00 and there were 6 people about...four teens making their way towards us along the Caribbean beach and a couple that apparently walked in they way we had come. Having met our objective, we left. We encountered another vehicle on its way in. If you want to be alone start out early! Oh, and the total walk in and out including the point was about 3-4 miles. Maybe not at all fun it hot weather, but it was not a hot day.
We ate lunch at Frigate’s and stopped at the 700 store on the back to Double Bay.
(I intend to post an Eats and Drinks installment)
Cape Eleuthera and a Tour: snorkeling was cancelled due to conditions but after Schooner Cay with a filling hot lunch we did get in a brief drift snorkel along the near shore reef behind the marina. The marina itself was nearly vacant but for a yacht so fantastic I just had to Google Seaquest. There was another couple on the tour, from Detroit, who took particular interest in it. Btw, we didn’t mind not having a private tour, we enjoyed the company. Some good stories were told by the tour owner and we all had some fun.
Down North: Glass Window Bridge, the Atlantic cliffs, Queens Bath, South Twins Beach, lunch at Daddy Joe’s, Gaulding Cay. GWB was the DH’s thing. If he wasn’t paying attention to tides so be it. I can only do so much planning. It was a low tide drama free visit. DH was especially glad I had pushed LHP. Again, we didn’t see many people on the beaches; fewer than 10. The change of scenery down north was interesting. There is a pineapple grove that offers tours and an organic farm. We might want to spend more time here and go further north on a future trip.
Critters
Black Witch Moths: watched them battle the wind on the evening of arrival. Some were successful in reaching the shelter of the rain gutter, some were not. They appeared nightly and when the wind subsided they were likely to land nearby on a table or wine glass or head.
Flying Party Bug: okay, I made that name up because I can’t ID it. An inquiry at the Plant Preserve pointed to a red winged tarantula wasp - but it didn’t quite match up. The day flier I saw had a thick, unsegmented, oval black body with small bright white dots. It had bright red translucent wings that reminded me of crepe paper. I only saw one and didn’t have my phone handy to take a photo.
If you think you know what it is, please post. I hope you can envision why I gave it the made up name.
Curly Tail Lizards: they are abundant but I never tired of seeing their perfect little circle tails.
Large hermit crabs: I’ve vacationed in the Carolinas. I’ve seen small ones in souvenir shops but the ones on Eleuthera are something else entirely. At least twice as big with orange-red shells. A few crossed our path on the way to LHP and I saw one by the patio of the rental.
Tree Frogs (probably?): One seemed to spend all day and night in the hurricane shutter. Two juveniles were sighted one night taking a rest on the very narrow top of slats on the ladder back patio chairs. Those didn’t look like frogs at all, until I saw their hooded eyes. Their legs were completely tucked under, haunches out of sight. In the dim light they looked more like large shiny voles. They were still there in the morning when DH went out at first light.
Turtles: they were abundant in Savannah Sound on New Years Day. A large one swam within a foot of DH. I don’t know if it was curious or wasn’t paying attention. At a foot away, if there had been a thought bubble over its head it would have read “Holy crap!” It abruptly turned and swam away at a fast speed to deeper water.
Shark: We were at the southernmost end of Double Bay at about 9:00 New Years Day. I was standing in the surf which was warmer and gentler than days prior. I started to wade out to a clear sandy area about 12-18” deep when the sun glinted off a dorsal fin. The shark was very pale (nurse? lemon?) and not easy to see. I estimate it to be about 2-2.5’ long. I backed out of the surf and we watched it disappear then reappear once. The sighing was both thrilling and a little unnerving.
While I'm on the subject of nature, before the next trip, I need to 1) read up on basic astronomy, the night sky is amazingly clear and 2) get more detailed 411 on snorkeling spots so I feel more secure about venturing out.
Upcoming as soon as I can get to it: Eats and Drinks
Thanks to all of you who provided advice and perspectives here and on TA. This trip would not have been nearly as wonderful without your guidance.
May you all have good health and happiness in 2019.
Our rental was a one bedroom house on the south end of Double Bay. It was just the husband (DH Darling Husband) and me. Far enough away from GH to be quiet, but a good central location to see as much as possible. Beautiful weather, friendly people, amazing scenery, quietude, and starry nights sums it up but the detailed memories are tumbling through my mind in an incredible kaleidoscope
Fun stuff first, practical stuff to follow, if I get around to it. Except for this - if you’re reading this for first time visitor info, get the Beach Book.
It costs less than swimwear and snorkel gear - just buy it, trust me. It will save you frustrating false starts and give you accurate 411 to make the most of your beach time.
Central Beaches
We knew that this time of year the air and water temps might not be good for extended bobbing and snorkeling. The week was windy but beautiful! On the upside, we weren’t fatigued by extreme heat and humidity nor besieged by bitey bugs. Most beautiful water views ever - we don’t have to get in it to enjoy it.
Double Bay (south end): most people seen at one time 8. A wide, clean beach, most of the homes were shuttered. The reef seemed too far for us especially given conditions. We can swim but it’s not our strength. We had a first time (for us) critter sighting at the very southern end, see Critters section below.
Ten Bay: most people seen at one time (first visit) 10 including those on a cottage porch. Another clean beach with a long (50 yards at least) sandy shallow entry. There was abundant shade under the casuarina trees. Saw a small ray and small fish. Enjoyable wading. We went back on New Years Day but there was a two car traffic jam at the parking area so we turned around and headed to...
Savannah Sound: most people seen at one time 1 - someone bonefishing during our first visit. On New Year’s Day there was no one but us. We pulled into the first parking area to check things out and there was no reason to drive further for privacy. It was low tide. The expanse of beach and crystalline water was divine. As an added bonus it was just after noon and the casuarina trees were casting a little shade. Delightful critter encounters here too. Might the rest of 2019 be this peaceful? Hope springs eternal.
Another ting Central
Leon Levy Plant Preserve was interesting and we saw only two other people on the trails. The view and breeze atop the tower was worth it. They are not just growing plants, but monitoring and studying conditions with scientific methods and equipment. One thing we learned is that casuarina trees are considered invasive. I forgot to ask if they were native or non-native.
Further Afield Up South and Down North
Lighthouse Point: My DH’s must see was Glass Window Bridge. LHP was mine. We left Double Bay at 7:30, about an hour later than planned, but it worked out ok. When the pavement ended and the beach road began we continued about a mile in the rental, a Honda CRV. At first the unpaved road was no worse that the road to the rental on Double Bay. Then it got much worse.
From behind the wheel DH was enjoying the challenge even as I winced at the fingernails on chalkboard sound of branches brushing against the vehicle. Then, on a small sandy rise, we brushed the bottom which was a bit unnerving. Just after that we came to a spot that was at least three vehicles wide and about four car lengths. We pulled over and surveyed the road ahead.
We could see Red Pond in the distance but we were fairly certain we were seeing the middle or end of it. As far as we could see the road would be more of the same - rocky and deeply rutted. A walk would be faster and more pleasant. We left the windows down, grabbed our lightweight daypacks and proceeded on foot.
After awhile (I think at the top of Red Pond) the road became flat packed sand and would have been an easy drive from that point,, but we enjoyed the walk. There were interesting tracks in the sand that were explained by a few small critter sightings.
We got to the Caribbean beach at about 9:20 and had it to ourselves. We followed the very soft sand “road” over to the Atlantic side and made our way out to the Point. It was windy, but not so much that it was too worrisome. It was totally worth the effort. After taking it all in and finding the surveyors marker dated 1959, we nosed around the lighthouse then ate snacks on the Caribbean beach. It was now around 11:00 and there were 6 people about...four teens making their way towards us along the Caribbean beach and a couple that apparently walked in they way we had come. Having met our objective, we left. We encountered another vehicle on its way in. If you want to be alone start out early! Oh, and the total walk in and out including the point was about 3-4 miles. Maybe not at all fun it hot weather, but it was not a hot day.
We ate lunch at Frigate’s and stopped at the 700 store on the back to Double Bay.
(I intend to post an Eats and Drinks installment)
Cape Eleuthera and a Tour: snorkeling was cancelled due to conditions but after Schooner Cay with a filling hot lunch we did get in a brief drift snorkel along the near shore reef behind the marina. The marina itself was nearly vacant but for a yacht so fantastic I just had to Google Seaquest. There was another couple on the tour, from Detroit, who took particular interest in it. Btw, we didn’t mind not having a private tour, we enjoyed the company. Some good stories were told by the tour owner and we all had some fun.
Down North: Glass Window Bridge, the Atlantic cliffs, Queens Bath, South Twins Beach, lunch at Daddy Joe’s, Gaulding Cay. GWB was the DH’s thing. If he wasn’t paying attention to tides so be it. I can only do so much planning. It was a low tide drama free visit. DH was especially glad I had pushed LHP. Again, we didn’t see many people on the beaches; fewer than 10. The change of scenery down north was interesting. There is a pineapple grove that offers tours and an organic farm. We might want to spend more time here and go further north on a future trip.
Critters
Black Witch Moths: watched them battle the wind on the evening of arrival. Some were successful in reaching the shelter of the rain gutter, some were not. They appeared nightly and when the wind subsided they were likely to land nearby on a table or wine glass or head.
Flying Party Bug: okay, I made that name up because I can’t ID it. An inquiry at the Plant Preserve pointed to a red winged tarantula wasp - but it didn’t quite match up. The day flier I saw had a thick, unsegmented, oval black body with small bright white dots. It had bright red translucent wings that reminded me of crepe paper. I only saw one and didn’t have my phone handy to take a photo.
If you think you know what it is, please post. I hope you can envision why I gave it the made up name.
Curly Tail Lizards: they are abundant but I never tired of seeing their perfect little circle tails.
Large hermit crabs: I’ve vacationed in the Carolinas. I’ve seen small ones in souvenir shops but the ones on Eleuthera are something else entirely. At least twice as big with orange-red shells. A few crossed our path on the way to LHP and I saw one by the patio of the rental.
Tree Frogs (probably?): One seemed to spend all day and night in the hurricane shutter. Two juveniles were sighted one night taking a rest on the very narrow top of slats on the ladder back patio chairs. Those didn’t look like frogs at all, until I saw their hooded eyes. Their legs were completely tucked under, haunches out of sight. In the dim light they looked more like large shiny voles. They were still there in the morning when DH went out at first light.
Turtles: they were abundant in Savannah Sound on New Years Day. A large one swam within a foot of DH. I don’t know if it was curious or wasn’t paying attention. At a foot away, if there had been a thought bubble over its head it would have read “Holy crap!” It abruptly turned and swam away at a fast speed to deeper water.
Shark: We were at the southernmost end of Double Bay at about 9:00 New Years Day. I was standing in the surf which was warmer and gentler than days prior. I started to wade out to a clear sandy area about 12-18” deep when the sun glinted off a dorsal fin. The shark was very pale (nurse? lemon?) and not easy to see. I estimate it to be about 2-2.5’ long. I backed out of the surf and we watched it disappear then reappear once. The sighing was both thrilling and a little unnerving.
While I'm on the subject of nature, before the next trip, I need to 1) read up on basic astronomy, the night sky is amazingly clear and 2) get more detailed 411 on snorkeling spots so I feel more secure about venturing out.
Upcoming as soon as I can get to it: Eats and Drinks
condition of more than one person on a beach. I stand corrected. I'm no longer shaking my head. I'm nodding in agreement. Keep in mind, I watched (over a period of 25 years) my previous happy quiet beach place become overrun. Twenty people on a hundred yard length of beach seemed peaceful enough to me.... before I experienced E. 
) One hint: Google Maps is your planning friend. Eleuthera isn't for everyone, but if you're the type of person to make the effort, it might be for you. If you experience fomo, my trip is not for you, but maybe a boutique hotel will suit you nicely.
